Beko Washing Machine Fault Codes: Full List and What Each One Means

✅ Safe to check yourself

This is a common, low-risk check most people can do safely. Always unplug the appliance (or isolate power) before touching internal parts.

Quick TipTake a photo of the appliance's model/serial number sticker now — you'll want it if this does end up needing a part or an engineer.

Beko washing machines display faults as an E-code on the digital panel — E2, E9, and so on. Older Beko models without a display, or models sold outside the UK, sometimes use an H-prefix instead for a similar set of faults, so if your manual shows H-codes rather than E-codes, the same general categories below still apply even though the exact numbering differs.

Worth knowing before you check the table: Beko’s newer washers (particularly compact and inverter-motor models from the last few years) use a slightly different E01–E18 numbering scheme with a leading zero, rather than the older single-digit E1–E10 scheme below. If a code on your display doesn’t match this table, check whether your model uses the newer scheme — the fault categories are largely the same, just numbered differently.

Beko fault code table

Code What it means Likely cause
E2 No heating Wiring issue with the heating circuit — usually needs a professional check
E3 Continuous heating Control board relay stuck on, keeping the heater running when it shouldn’t be
E4 Not filling with water Water valve fault, wiring issue, or something as simple as a door not shutting properly
E5 Drainage fault Blocked pump filter is the first thing to check — this clears the fault in a large share of cases
E6 Motor fault Machine shaking excessively or stopping mid-cycle — needs a qualified engineer
E9 Door lock fault Lock mechanism or its electrical connection has failed
E10 Door jammed Door mechanically stuck rather than an electrical lock fault — worth checking nothing is caught in the seal before assuming it’s the lock itself

Which of these need a professional?

E2, E3, E6, and E9 all point at electrical or mechanical faults inside the machine that need proper diagnosis — attempting a DIY fix on the heating circuit or motor risks making things worse or is a genuine safety issue. E5 (drainage) is the one most people can check themselves first: clearing the pump filter resolves it often enough that it’s worth trying before assuming a part has failed.

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